Day 10: Portree, Isle of Skye - Saturday, 7 September

Weather: 9º - 21º - Foggy, Sunny and lots of Haar!

Accommodation: Burnbrae Apartment, Portree

Before setting out for our main destination of the day, the Neist Point Lighthouse, we headed into a foggy Portree to buy some midge repellant. Unfortunately, Boots, the chemist, had neither Avon’s Skin So Soft or Smidge so we headed to the local Co-Op where there were ample supplies of Smidge. Henk, who hates anything that bites, was delighted to have found the repellant. The promotion for Smidge says, “Throw those annoying little bleeders off your scent and get out there.”

We walked through the fog and down the ramp to the harbour and it looked very different from the previous sunny evening. The tide was high and we couldn’t see the nearby Bay of Rasaay or the Isle of Rasaay. 

We then set off to find a coffee shop. Interestingly, unlike during the week, the streets were quiet and we were to learn that it’s “changeover day” when tourists return to the mainland and others arrive later in the day. The “Wheelie Good Coffee Shop” on the quay was closed so we moved onto “Relish” which had tables on the first floor so we could overlook the street. They also served my favourite cake, the Victoria Sponge which Henk and I shared. We’re trying to be good!

We called into the wonderful bookshop, “Carmina Gadelica” opposite the coffee shop to buy extra supplies before moving on to the Outer Hebrides. I decided on “The Black House” by Carole Johnstone as it’s set in the Outer Hebrides. Henk opted for a puzzle book, “Murdle - Solve 100 Devilishly Devious Murder Mystery Logic Puzzles”. We also called into the Information Centre and got a few maps for the Outer Hebrides just in case there wasn’t sufficient internet coverage. We returned to our apartment through the thick fog and set out for the lighthouse.

It didn’t take long for the fog to clear as we drove out from Portree and we had a sunny day. It was a 33 mile, one hour drive to the lighthouse on the Durinich Peninsula which is the most westerly point on the Isle of Skye. Once again, once we were off the main road, the road became a single lane with frequent passing lanes with all the drivers taking care and being courteous. With so many potholes on the minor roads it was a challenge to choose which was the better pothole to drive through. 

The first part of the walk to the lighthouse has a very steep descent from the high cliff and then a steep ascent to climb back up again. It’s not for the unfit!

The lighthouse is now automatic and the scenery at the peninsula is stunning and probably the best on the island. We were fortunate to see it in such good weather. 

The midges were around and silly us left the Smidge in the car after walking into Portree to buy some. We didn’t realise the walk to the lighthouse was as long as it was.

When we left the lighthouse we called into the very small general store at the teeny tiny village of Glendale. It was like a tardis packed to the gunwales with everything a little village would require. 

We bought cold pork pies for lunch (our diet is getting worse!)  and the owner convinced us to buy some of Nell’s cakes which are locally baked each day. We sat outside the store on a bench next to a pedestrian light. The storekeeper used it during Covid restrictions when only two people were allowed into the store at one time.

Closer to Portree we visited the textile showroom, Island at the Edge at Edinbane which sits on the picturesque shore of Lock Greshornish. We were so pleased we called in as it had exquisite homespun wool made from their own Hebredian and Black Cheviot sheep, locally knitted garments in the Fisherman’s Gansey’s style and their own woven cloth. The owner was also a crofter managing sheep and cows on the property. She’s one busy lady.

From the front of the shop we could see the fog over Portree. The owner explained to us that it was called the Haar, a cold sea fog blown in from the sea. This was caused by the recent hot sunny days. When we drove closer to Portree Henk took a photo of the Haar over the town. 

We left for dinner at five thirty and we were lucky on the third attempt to find a place for dinner. This was at a bar/pizzeria called the Caberfeidh Bar and Restaurant. There was limited choice of pizzas or hamburgers but we didn’t want to be chasing our tails around town trying to find something better. We had a window table and we could see the Haar settling again on the mountains beside the town. 

Before returning to the apartment we visited the harbour again and we could see more of the Haar coming inland again. It was only twelve degrees but it felt much warmer.

Once again we had a fantastic day. Tomorrow is our last day on Skye.