Day 14: North Bay, Isle of Barra to Isle of South Uist 

Weather: 10º - 12º - Very changeable - sunny, rainy, cloudy, strong winds

Accommodation: Hebrides View, Aird a’ Mhachair, Isle of South Uist 

It’s a fortnight today since we started our trip and it seems a lifetime ago since we left Australia. We have done so much and learned a lot in the last two weeks. 

We woke to a cold, blustery morning which soon changed to sunshine and then rain and then sunshine again. This was the pattern for the day but it did get sunnier during the afternoon. Henk packed the car in-between the showers fighting against the wind. We were sorry to be leaving Barra and Vatersay as they are beautiful small islands.

We had to be at the vehicular ferry which was a seven minute drive from our bungalow for a check-in at 8.25am for a departure at 9.25am. Thankfully, there was a little wooden hut we could wait in at the small terminal instead of staying in the car. It was warm and out of the wind and served coffee and cakes which we didn’t expect so we grabbed a coffee while we waited. Outside the hut overlooking Barra Sound was a sculpture of two otters playing with a fish. I wasn’t quite sure about it!

The ferry was small and we had to remain in the car for the crossing. 

We couldn’t see anything for the entire journey and waves washed over the high ferry walls and onto our car. Despite the wind and the waves the crossing was quite smooth but I was pleased to be off it after the forty minute crossing as I was starting to feel seasick. We came off on the southern side of the tiny Isle of Eriskay, drove a short distance across the island and across a causeway and we were on the Isle of South Uist. We will be here for three nights.

As check-in at our B&B wasn’t until 4.00pm we drove to nearby Lochboisdale. It was much tinier than we expected and we couldn’t see a cafe. 

We called into the the Information Centre and had an hilarious encounter with a local young woman (YW) minding the centre for her mother. The conversation went like this:

Me: Hi. We’re staying in Uist for three nights. We thought we’d call in and see what we can see in Lochboisdale.

YW: Why? There’s nothing here to see. 

She squirmed out of her seat in front of the computer, put down her blanket and walked towards the wall map. We hovered around it. 

YW: If my mother was here she’d tell you places to go. Here’s some pamphlets that my mother gives visitors. I’m not sure what’s in them. 

Me: Is there a cafe here? 

YW: No, but my brother works in a cafe. It’s over here somewhere. (She has trouble finding the place on the map but eventually finds it.) There’s a museum there too. 

Henk and I emerged from the centre feeling like we had been in a David Williams’ skit when his character Carol Beer says, “Computer says no.”

The Kildonan Museum Complex which has a museum, cafe and craft centre was the ideal place to visit. The exterior didn’t look too inviting but looked strong enough to withstand any gale force winds. Inside it was modern, professional and inviting. 

We first went to the cafe and had freshly baked date scones with jam (our diet isn’t improving). The museum was excellent and covered the history of the island from ancient archeological finds, Bonnie Prince Charlie’s association with the island, crofting, textiles and agriculture. It gave us a good background for staying on Sth Uist. 

We contacted our host, Isabel, and she said she would have our room ready by 2.00pm so that was good news. Our B&B is on the NW side of the island facing the Nth Atlantic Ocean. It has wonderful views over the ocean and the countryside. 

As we are going to be on Sth Uist for two full days we didn’t feel the pressure to be out and about after checking in. We both had an afternoon nap as the wind became constant and strong. 

Our friendly host suggested that we get takeway from a local business rather than go out in the wind and she also offered to pick it up as she was going shopping. We ate in the communal dining room which is beside the large communal lounge area overlooking the ocean through large windows. It is relaxed and comfortable. The fireplace in the lounge room makes it very cosy. 

There is another couple staying for two nights from Nova Scotia. By coincidence their daughter studied at Griffith Uni where I once studied. 

Tomorrow we start exploring the Sth Uist.