Day 17: Ardivacha Point, Lochdar, South Uist to Stornoway, Isle of Lewis - Saturday, 14 September 

Weather: 13º - 15º - Rain, strong winds, clearing a little in the afternoon 

Accommodation: Assynt Cottage, Stornoway, Isle of Lewis 

The wind seemed to rage all night and we woke to a rainy, bleak day with very strong and blustery winds. We checked the ferry website which was updated at 6.00am and the ferry was still sailing at 4.00pm. Last night we were in luck. When we returned from the hotel Henk checked the bookings for the ferry and he found he could book a place so he quickly booked one. This meant we had moved from standby to a booking which put us in a much better position. The weather just needed to improve!

So, at the start of the day we had two options - catch the afternoon ferry but if it wasn’t running return to our B&B to catch the 9.30am ferry on Sunday. We farewelled our B&B hosts, Isabel and Robert not knowing if we would be seeing them later in the day if the ferry wasn’t running. They were terrific hosts and we felt so comfortable in their home. Prior to leaving I updated our new host in Stornoway letting her know of the situation. 

We left the B&B at eleven o’clock. The rain had cleared for a while but the wind was strong and buffetted the car as I drove along the one lane roads with their little passing places. There weren’t too many cars on the road being a Saturday and with such dire weather. There were many sheep in the paddocks that sesemed unfazed by the weather and still eating grass. 

We had lunch at Taigh Cheasabhagh, the museum we visited a couple of days ago. It was a convenient place to stop on the hour’s trip to the ferry terminal. The cafe was full and a sign asked that people share tables. We sat with a great English couple, about our age, from Kent and we talked for two hours. It was a great way to fill in the waiting time whilst checking and rechecking the ferry website. The other couple were waiting to catch a different ferry from the museum. We had to drive a further 20mins from the museum and crossed a causeway to get to the ferry at the the Isle of Berneray Ferry Terminal. 

At 2.50 pm we parked the car in the “booked” lane and waited. Thankfully, it was cosy in the car. There was no little hut in which to wait like the one at Barra. 

The conditions looked dreadful with continuing strong winds, very choppy seas and visibility was low. At 3.30pm we received a text from the ferry company saying that they would be sailing at 4.00pm. I immediately took two Kwell tablets and emailed our new host in Stornaway re our arrival time at the B&B. Henk phoned Isabel letting her know we would be on the ferry and didn’t require another night’s stay. Our anticipated arrival time at Stornoway was to be 6.30pm.

As the ferry set off the weather started to improve with lighter skies and a drop in the speed of the wind. The ferry had an interior section where we could sit for the hour’s duration rather than stay in the car. Not surprisingly, the trip was choppy as the ferry weaved in between small  islands and rocks. I had no issues with seasickness. We landed at Leverburgh Terminal, Isle of Harris  at 5.15pm. 

We then set off for the 1.5hr drive to Stornoway. It was mostly a two lane road so it made for easier driving. We were pleased to have arrived at Stornoway and it seemed like a long day.

Our host Jan greeted us on arrival and showed us through the lovely little cottage where we are staying for three nights. 

Jan lives in an amazing large house next to us. It has a beautiful garden.

We quickly unpacked the car and headed to the town centre for a meal. We found a little, stylish restaurant called The Blakes Bar and Kitchen. It was full but I think we had that hungry look on our faces again and they fitted us in. 

Tomorrow we start exploring the Isles of Lewis and Harris. The weather looks like it’s improving.