Day 8: Portree, Isle of Skye - Thursday, 5 September

Weather: 9º - 18º - Sunny 

Accommodation: Burnbrae Apartment, Portree

We woke to a stunning day with not a cloud in the sky (on the Isle of Skye!). Lucky us!

The morning was spent at Dunvegan Castle, the ancestral home of the Chief of the MacLeod Clan. Unlike the Eilean Donan Castle which was vacant for 200 years, Dunvegan Castle has been continually inhabited by the MacLeods for an astonishing 800 years. Now that’s a family that sticks together through thick and thin!

The castle, which one description said it looks like a block of flats with turrets, is only a thirty minute drive west from Portree and sits on the eastern shore of beautiful Loch Dunvegan. The castle is made up of many structures built over many centuries but in the 1840’s it received a massive makeover and it does look like one building.

We arrived at the castle’s opening at 10.00am and there were already people lined up to buy tickets. There seems to be tourists everywhere. We bought tickets to see both the castle and the gardens. There is a moderate entrance to the castle’s main stairway to the first floor where most of the rooms are located. I took a photo of Henk on the main stairs and he looks very tall.

The castle was such a contrast to the simple cottages of the crofters which we saw yesterday. Nevertheless, the castle did feel “lived in” and comfortable. Even the servants’ quarters were of a much higher standard than the crofters’ cottages. Unlike in Eilean Donan Castel we were allowed to take photos. 

We toured the extensive and beautiful gardens and I particularly liked the large Walled Garden. It felt like I was in Frances Hodgson Burnett’s “The Secret Garden” with the surrounding high stone walls.

We decided on an early lunch in the castle’s large and modern cafe because we are having dinner so early. Unfortunately, the venison stew was not being served until noon so we settled on the huge homemade scones with raspberry jam and copious amounts of clotted cream. 

Following lunch and only fifteen minutes from Dunvegan Castle we visited the family business, Skyeskyns, a family-owned tannery factory and shop which were established in 1983 at Waternish. The business prides itself on using traditional and natural tanning methods and we were fortunate to be given a personal tour of the entire process by one of the owners. 

After visiting the tannery our plan was to visit the Fairy Pools but decided it would be a hot afternoon walk and we would visit it tomorrow morning when it was cooler. So we changed our afternoon tour plans and retraced our route along the A850 to visit the Edinbane Pottery. It sits at the head of Loch Greshornish about 20kms from Portree. The pottery is now in its third generation after being established in 1971 and focuses on salt-glazed and wood-fired wares. I would have loved to have bought some of the larger pieces but as travellers we are limited. 

Many of the roads we are driving on are single lane with, thankfully, many passing places. All the drivers are courteous and take turns pulling to the side to allow oncoming cars to pass. Of more of a challenge are the many and huge potholes. Some are very wide and deep and could cause some serious damage to the car. Many Black Faced Sheep also line the roads and seem unfazed eating the grass on the verge as we pass. 

We set out for dinner at the ridiculous hour of 5.15pm to be able to get at table at the recommended Cuchullin Restaurant. When we arrived, there were already 14 people in front of us. We thought we’d be first! The restaurant opened its doors at 5.30pm and we were lucky to secure a table in one of the front windows. 

We both enjoyed mussels for entree and scollaps for the main course and moved onto dessert. Hopefully, we’ll burn some extra calories on our walk to the Fairy Pools tomorrow!

It was a cool walk back to our apartment as we didn’t take our jackets. There were many dining outdoors making most of the sunny twilight.